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1986 Ford Ranger EV conversion

The build behind this business: a gas Ranger turned into a daily-driven electric truck in Rhode Island. Parts, wiring decisions, and the mistakes worth avoiding.

The truck

A 1986 Ford Ranger: light, simple, body-on-frame, and nothing on it that talks to a computer. That's close to the ideal starting point for an EV conversion. It came as an automatic, which turned into the biggest single decision of the build. Today it's converted, registered in Rhode Island, and driven every day.

SystemWhat's in it
MotorNetGain Hyper9 HV, on the original bellhousing with a CanEV adapter plate
InverterHyper-Drive AC-X1, 120/144V 500A, liquid cooled
BatteryTesla modules, 36S — about 133V nominal, 108V empty to 151V full
BMSThunderstruck MCU with two BMSS18 satellite cell monitors
ChargingThunderstruck TSM2500 onboard charger, J1772 + NACS charge port
12VThunderstruck DC-DC, 13.8V / 50A, keeping the 12V battery topped up
TransmissionManual, swapped in to replace the factory automatic
Power steeringElectro-hydraulic pump from a 2013–2018 Nissan Altima
DashRaspberry Pi CAN dashboard, open source
Hyper9 electric motor and X1 inverter being lowered into the Ford Ranger's engine bay on a chain hoist
Motor and X1 inverter going into the bay.

Motor and transmission

The Hyper9 bolts to the Ranger's original bellhousing through a CanEV adapter plate, so the clutch and gearbox do their normal job. Because the truck came with an automatic, the automatic came out with the engine and a manual went in its place. It's more work and more money than keeping a factory manual, but it's the well-worn path and it keeps the drivetrain simple.

In practice the electric motor's torque means most driving happens in one or two gears.

NetGain Hyper9 electric motor bolted to the Ford Ranger transmission with a CanEV adapter plate
Hyper9 on the original bellhousing.

Inverter and cooling

The Hyper-Drive AC-X1 is conduction cooled — all of its heat leaves through its flat aluminum base. On the Ranger it sits on an Inductive Autoworks cold plate, plumbed into an EV West cooling kit: a 12V pump, a small aluminum radiator with two 120mm fans, and a reservoir, running 50/50 aluminum-safe coolant. The X1 starts derating at 80°C on the heatsink, so the fans are set to come on well before that.

Battery pack and BMS

The pack is Tesla modules wired to 36 cells in series, roughly 133V nominal. Every branch off the pack is fused, the main feed goes through a 600A fuse and a contactor, and a precharge relay brings the inverter up gently before the contactor closes. The high-voltage side is fully isolated from the 12V system and the chassis.

A Thunderstruck MCU runs the BMS with two satellite boards reading all 36 cells, and it doubles as the charge controller — no separate EVCC.

Lesson learned: check every BMS voltage limit against your actual cell chemistry before the pack goes live. Ours had cutoffs set for LFP cells, not the NMC chemistry in Tesla modules, and it threw a high-voltage fault on perfectly healthy cells. Correct limits for the chemistry fixed it.
Engine bay of the converted Ford Ranger with high voltage EV components mounted
High-voltage hardware living where the engine used to.

Charging

A Thunderstruck TSM2500 onboard charger feeds the pack from a J1772 + NACS charge port, so the truck plugs into ordinary Level 2 stations and home chargers. The port's pilot and proximity lines go to the MCU, which tells the charger what to do over CAN.

Everything the engine used to run

  • 12V power: a DC-DC converter keeps the 12V battery charged whenever the pack is live.
  • Power steering: an electro-hydraulic pump from a Nissan Altima replaces the belt-driven pump. It has its own heavy fused feed and was bench-tested before it went in the truck.
  • Drive selector: a rotary R / N / D knob in the dash.
  • Regen modes: a three-position toggle selects the X1's operating profiles — coast with no regen, moderate regen, and strong one-pedal regen.
Rotary R N D drive selector knob installed in the dashboard of the electric Ford Ranger
R / N / D, wired into the original dash.

The dashboard

The factory gauges don't know what a battery is, so the Ranger runs a custom dashboard on a Raspberry Pi with a two-channel CAN hat — one bus for the battery and charger, one for the motor controller. It shows state of charge, pack voltage and current, temperatures, and motor data, and feeds Home Assistant. A small always-on ESP32 can wake the truck remotely and reads the battery bus while it charges, without keeping the Pi running.

There's also a read-only openpilot port built from the truck's real CAN signals. Steering control isn't possible without an electric power steering actuator, which this truck doesn't have.

What we'd tell anyone starting a conversion

  1. Start with a manual transmission if you can. Swapping out an automatic is the most avoidable cost.
  2. Pick the BMS early and configure it for your real cell chemistry.
  3. Fuse every high-voltage branch and keep HV isolated from chassis ground.
  4. Plan for the things the engine quietly did for you: power steering, brakes, heat, 12V charging.
  5. Document the wiring as you go. The ranger-ev repo is ours, and it has saved us more than once.
Working underneath the Ford Ranger during the gas to electric conversion
Most of a conversion is time spent under the truck.

Open source

Wiring references, CAN decoding, the dashboard, and the openpilot port are all public: ranger-ev and ranger-dashboard. If you're doing your own Hyper9 or Thunderstruck build, they're a good place to start — and we do build consulting if you get stuck.

FAQ

Common questions

Q1What motor is in the electric Ford Ranger?

A NetGain Hyper9 HV, driven by a Hyper-Drive AC-X1 120/144V 500A inverter and bolted to the original bellhousing with a CanEV adapter plate.

Q2What batteries does the Ranger conversion use?

Tesla modules configured as 36 cells in series, about 133V nominal, managed by a Thunderstruck MCU BMS.

Q3Can a Ford Ranger with an automatic be converted to electric?

Yes. Ours came as an automatic. The usual approach, and what we did, is to remove the automatic with the engine and install a manual transmission that the electric motor mates to.

Q4How does the converted Ranger charge?

Through a J1772 + NACS charge port feeding a Thunderstruck TSM2500 onboard charger, so it works with standard Level 2 chargers.

Talk about your vehicle

Year, make, model, and what you want to do with it. That's enough to start. We read everything and reply personally.

hello@rievs.com Call or text (401) 414-3290