Why convert a classic car to electric
A lot of classics end up better as EVs than they ever were as gas cars. They start every time. They stop leaking on the garage floor. No tune-ups, and the torque is there from nothing. Most of them are light and mechanically simple with no computers to integrate, which is why they're such satisfying things to convert.
The idea is to leave the parts you actually care about alone. Body, interior, how it sits. What changes is underneath.
What makes a good candidate
- Light and simple — less weight means a smaller pack for the same range.
- Solid structure — the car has to carry the battery weight safely, so any rust repair happens first.
- Room for batteries — engine bay, trunk, and the space where the fuel tank lived.
- A manual gearbox — the simplest path is keeping it and mating the motor to the bellhousing.
Keeping the character
Weight and balance
Where modules go changes how the car handles. We place the pack to keep weight low and close to the original balance, then check suspension and brakes against the new weight.
Gauges and dash
The original gauges obviously weren't built for a battery, but they can usually be kept and driven off the new system. Some people add a small second display for state of charge and pack data. On our Ranger we added a small drive selector knob and kept the original dash.
Charging without cutting the body
The charge port can often live behind the original fuel door, so the car looks untouched from the outside.
Heat, brakes, and steering
Anything that ran off the engine — vacuum brake assist, power steering, cabin heat — gets an electric replacement or is deliberately left out.
Reversibility
If originality matters to you, tell us early. We can plan the conversion around the car's original mounting points and keep the original engine parts so the change isn't permanent.
What the conversion includes
- AC motor and inverter sized to the car
- Battery pack design, enclosures, and mounting
- Battery management, contactors, fusing, and high-voltage safety
- Onboard charger and J1772 or NACS charge port
- 12V system, gauges, and dash integration
Cost and range
Both depend on the same handful of things — pack size, what the car weighs, and how much fabrication it takes to fit everything properly. We quote per car, after talking through how you actually drive it. See the line-by-line cost breakdown.
Where we work
We're based in Rhode Island, and we take classic car conversions from across New England and the Northeast. If you're building it yourself, we can consult on components and wiring or put together the parts list.