Why old trucks make great EVs
Old pickups are probably the easiest thing there is to convert. They're body-on-frame, mechanically simple, and there's a lot of empty space once the engine and tank are out — under the hood, between the rails, under the bed. Nothing in an '86 pickup is going to argue with you over CAN either. And people tend to like the truck itself, which is the whole reason to bother.
Ours is a 1986 Ford Ranger. We converted it and we drive it, so the rest of this page comes from experience rather than research.
Which trucks convert well
- Compact and mid-size pickups — Ford Ranger, Chevy S-10, Toyota and Nissan pickups, Mazda B-series. Light trucks need smaller packs for useful range, which keeps cost down.
- Manual transmissions — the motor mates to the existing bellhousing and the gearbox stays. An automatic can be converted, but swapping in a manual adds real cost.
- Solid frames — the frame carries the battery weight for years, so it is the first thing we look at. Around here rust rules out more candidate trucks than anything else does.
- Full-size trucks — older full-size pickups work too, but they're heavier and usually need a larger pack and a bigger motor to feel right.
What changes in a truck conversion
Motor and inverter
An AC motor and matching inverter replace the engine. Sizing depends on the truck's weight, how it's driven, and whether it tows.
Battery pack
Modules go wherever there's now room for them: under the hood, between the frame rails, under the bed. They sit in enclosures made for that specific truck. Pack size is what sets your range, and it's usually the biggest single cost in the build.
Battery management and safety
A BMS watches every cell, contactors and fuses protect the high-voltage system, and the HV side is isolated from the chassis.
Charging
An onboard charger and a J1772 or NACS charge port let the truck charge at home or at public Level 2 stations.
Everything the engine used to run
Power steering, brake vacuum, heat, AC, and 12V charging all came off the engine. Each needs an electric replacement — on our Ranger that meant an electro-hydraulic power steering pump and a DC-DC converter for the 12V system.
Towing, payload, and range
Batteries are heavy, and that weight counts against payload. Towing takes a lot more energy than driving empty, so a truck that needs to tow needs a bigger pack and a motor sized for it. Better to be honest about that at the start than hand back a truck that runs out the first time you hitch something to it.
Range comes down to pack size, weight, and aerodynamics, and a pickup has none of the last one. We work out a number for your specific truck at the spec stage rather than quoting one here.
What drives the cost
There's no flat price for an electric truck conversion. The battery pack, motor and inverter, transmission situation, fabrication, and the accessories that need electric replacements all move the number. The cost breakdown on our homepage goes line by line.
Full build, help with your build, or just parts
We do complete truck conversions in Rhode Island for owners across New England and the Northeast. If you're converting your own truck, we can help with component selection, wiring, and BMS and CAN commissioning, or put together a full parts list.