Keep the truck.
Lose the engine.

There's no single number, because a conversion is a pile of separate line items and every vehicle moves them around:

• Battery pack — usually the biggest one, and it scales directly with the range you want. New vs. salvage modules is a large fork in the road.
• Motor and inverter — sized to the vehicle and how you plan to drive it.
• Labor to strip the ICE out — engine, exhaust, fuel system, radiator. On a rusty New England truck this takes longer than people expect.
• Transmission — if it's already a manual, you keep it and adapt to the existing bellhousing, which is the cheap path. An automatic means swapping a manual in or going direct-drive, and that's real added cost. Our Ranger came as an automatic, so we've done this swap ourselves.
• Everything the engine used to run — power steering, vacuum brakes, heat, AC. Each one needs an electric replacement or it goes away.
• Charging — onboard charger, charge port, and the HV wiring to support it.
• Fabrication — motor mounts, battery boxes, and brackets are vehicle-specific and almost never off the shelf.

Tell us the vehicle, whether it's a manual, and how far you need to go, and we'll put a real quote together instead of guessing here.

Light, simple, and mechanically sound. Older pickups and small trucks are ideal — room for the pack, straightforward wiring, and no computer to fight with. Newer vehicles with heavy electronics integration are harder and cost more. More on truck conversions and classic cars.

It's a function of pack size, vehicle weight, and aero. We'll estimate it for your specific vehicle during the spec step rather than promising a number up front.

If you already have a manual, you keep it — that's the simplest path. The motor mates to the existing bellhousing and the gearbox stays. Most conversions end up driving in one or two gears once you get used to the torque.

If it's an automatic, the usual answer is to pull it and put a manual in. That's what we did on the Ranger — it came as an automatic, the old transmission came out with the engine, and a manual went in its place. It adds cost and it adds work, but it's well-trodden ground and we've been through it.

In Rhode Island, what the DMV told us is that a conversion needs sign-off from a licensed electrical engineer and a licensed mechanical engineer, both based in the state. It's handled like an engine swap with extra steps, not a rebuilt vehicle. That came from a phone call rather than published guidance, so confirm it for your own build — we'll tell you what we know and point you at the DMV for anything we're not sure of. See our notes on registering a converted EV.

We're based in Rhode Island. We take full conversions from across New England and the Northeast — Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and New York. Build consulting and parts sourcing can happen anywhere. More on our service area.